Modeling Journey

California girl Hailey Clauson shows her versatility as a model in this beguiling editorial shot by Sebastian Kim for Numero issue no. 124. Since her debut at the Spring/Summer 2011 shows where she walked for the likes of Calvin Klein, Gucci, Versace, Lanvin and Louis Vuitton, Clauson has continued to build on that momentum by posing for such industry heavy-weights as Patrick Demarchelier for LOVE Magazine, Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott for W Magazine, Terry Tsiolis for V Man, Ellen Von Unwerth for i-D Magazine, and Peter Lindbergh for Numero. Clauson had an equally impressive Spring/Summer 2011 campaign season, appearing in campaigns for Gucci, DSquared2 and Jill Stuart. Clauson's ability to combine wholesome all-American appeal with a sophistication belying her sixteen years of age is her trump card. Having recently switched representation from Marilyn to Next Models, I predict that Clauson will be a major force in the modelling world in the years to come.

The process involved in finding the right face for a global campaign is something that Andrew Weir, the founder and creative director of ACW Worldwide has down pat. Weir's magic touch has guided the brand marketing for Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, Zac Posen and Viktor & Rolf. In the modelling industry, Weir's approval can make or break a model's career, landing her on the pages of  American, British and Italia Vogue, V Magazine, Arena Homme +, and W Magazine, all of whom are on Weir's client list.

In an interview with Lookbooks.com, Weir gives his perspective on the evolution of the modelling industry. "Almost everything is different now. The girls are younger, smaller and interchangeable. When I was first doing shows at CK, we used major, beautiful, top models who had been working a while and moved up through the ranks. The power and strength of the girls from a few years ago has been traded for the brand-new-face-of-the-second. There are usually trends in the demand for new faces every season. Lately there seems to be a lot of clients wanting talent from Holland and Scandinavia. There is a great group of new girls from this region who are impacting the industry at the moment."

Joan Smalls & Andrew Weir Photographer - Unknown Source - thefashionspot.com

Candice Swanepoel & Joan Smalls Photographer - Andrew Weir Source - style.com

When quizzed by Lookbooks.com as to which new model of 2010 made the most indelible impression on him, Weir replies unequivocally "Joan Smalls. She is not a new face. We have been working with her for years. I feel like she is the one 'new' girl who has the most potential long-term for 'off the charts' success. She is that rare face that is all things. She will have fragrance and beauty campaigns. I feel strongly that she will do all the Vogues and many major campaigns and editorials." In an interview with style.com Weir also lists Candice Swanepoel as a potential contender, "Candice is a beautiful girl who sends a hush over the room when she floats in. She reminds me of what the girls were like when I first started in this business."

ACW's annual casting call at the Hudson Hotel in New York attracts hundreds of models hoping to impress Weir and his team. Weir's advice to models attending castings is "I like to see the kids as they are, so if that means they come in with a dirty t-shirt and chewing gum, so be it. I would rather see them come in unprepared and 'real' than the kid who has been over-styled and over-coached by an agency. I am looking for individuals with personality, not a polished version of what someone thinks they should be." The following casting shots taken by Weir aptly illustrate the beauty of models in their natural, unpolished state.

Arizona Muse

Liisa Winkler

Eliza Cummings

Madelene de la Motte

Lily

Bambi Northwood-Blyth

Iselin Steiro

Julia Nobis Photographer - Andrew Weir Source - weirdiary.com

I cannot rhapsodise enough over the impossibly gorgeous New Zealand model Jessica Clarke. Nineteen year old Clarke was scouted three years ago whilst on a family outing at a local cinema by Clyne Model Management director Kim Larking. Clarke has the kind of face that model agents dream of, perfect in symmetry, with azure baby blues, peaches and cream complexion and a come hither pout. Clarke made the move to New York in January where she is now represented by powerhouse agency DNA Models. The industry buzz surrounding Clarke hit overdrive before she had even set foot on an international runway. Influential casting director Ashely Brokaw gushed to the NY Times "Just saw a girl Jesica Clarke at DNA. Very excited about her. Classic supermodel material from New Zealand." Casting directors Gregori Boina and Rami Fernandes also spotted Clarke's potential as she made the rounds of New York's casting circuit and placed her on exclusive for Calvin Klein's Spring 2011 show. 

Clarke so far lists her D&G Spring/Summer 2011 campaign and her Calvin Klein exclusive during her debut season as two outstanding career highlights. In an interview with wwd.com, Clarke recalls "Getting the D&G campaign was amazing. I love Dolce and it was kind of surreal to shoot with Mario Testino. He's incredibly talented but also the nicest man. Also when I got the Calvin Klein exclusive my first season. It was such a big deal." Clarke maintains a level head despite the hype and explains in an interview with the Cut that "I would love to do a campaign and some super creative editorials. I have a lot of growing to do in terms of modelling so the more work I can do, the more experience which will help me become a better model." I'll admit that I have a serious girl crush on Clarke and cannot wait for the rest of the fashion industry to follow suit.

Before the emergence of Doutzen Kroes, Lara Stone, Daphne Groeneveld et al, the Netherland's was duly represented by supermodel Karen Mulder. Mulder was discovered in 1985 at the age of fifteen year when a friend sent in pictures of her to the Elite Agency's reknowned Elite Model Look competition. Mulder placed second and was swiftly signed onto Elite's books. Standing at 180 cm with honey blonde tresses and classically beautiful features, Mulder quickly ascended the ranks of the modelling ladder working for high-profile clients like Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Calvin Klein. Mulder came to represent the epitome of the classic blonde however with a refined European elegance and sophistication that was missing amongst her American counterparts.

Mulder became a regular fixture within the pages and on the covers of high fashion publications like British Vogue, Paris Vogue and American Vogue, and was photographed habitually by influential photographers of the day; Arthur Elgort, Patrick Demarchelier, Peter Lindberg, Francesco Scavullo, Helmut Newton and Irving Penn. By 1991, Mulder had hit her stride professionally, landing multi-million dollar contracts with Guess, Calvin Klein and Chanel cosmetics. Mulder formed part of an exclusive group of supermodels during the nineties including Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Tatjana Patitz, appearing together on the cover of the 100th Anniversary issue of American Vogue shot by Patrick Demarchelier.

During the latter part of her career, Mulder capitalised on her wholesome good looks by appearing in the coveted Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue and became a Victoria's Secret staple model. Mulder retreated from modelling in 2000 and has gone on record as saying that "From the beginning I hated being photographed. For me, it was just an assumed role, and in the end, I didn't really know who I was as a person. Everybody was saying to me, 'Hi, you're fantastic.' But inside, I felt worse from day to day." Mulder's life post-modelling has since been characterised by personal and emotional issues which have been widely documented in the international press.