Showing posts with label Helmut Newton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Helmut Newton. Show all posts

Thursday, 23 June 2011

Classic Blonde

Before the emergence of Doutzen Kroes, Lara Stone, Daphne Groeneveld et al, the Netherland's was duly represented by supermodel Karen Mulder. Mulder was discovered in 1985 at the age of fifteen year when a friend sent in pictures of her to the Elite Agency's reknowned Elite Model Look competition. Mulder placed second and was swiftly signed onto Elite's books. Standing at 180 cm with honey blonde tresses and classically beautiful features, Mulder quickly ascended the ranks of the modelling ladder working for high-profile clients like Valentino, Yves Saint Laurent, Versace and Calvin Klein. Mulder came to represent the epitome of the classic blonde however with a refined European elegance and sophistication that was missing amongst her American counterparts.

US Harpers Bazaar - March 1994
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier

US Vogue - March 1991
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier

US Vogue - Unknown
Photographer - Helmut Newton

US Harpers Bazaar - September 1994
Photographer - Wayne Maser

US Vogue - June 1991
Photographer - Marc Hispard

British Vogue - Unknown
Photographer - Mikael Jansson

US Vogue - April 1991
Photographer - Irving Penn

British Vogue - April 1991
Photographer - Peter Lindberg

Mulder became a regular fixture within the pages and on the covers of high fashion publications like British Vogue, Paris Vogue and American Vogue, and was photographed habitually by influential photographers of the day; Arthur Elgort, Patrick Demarchelier, Peter Lindberg, Francesco Scavullo, Helmut Newton and Irving Penn. By 1991, Mulder had hit her stride professionally, landing multi-million dollar contracts with Guess, Calvin Klein and Chanel cosmetics. Mulder formed part of an exclusive group of supermodels during the nineties including Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Tatjana Patitz, appearing together on the cover of the 100th Anniversary issue of American Vogue shot by Patrick Demarchelier.

During the latter part of her career, Mulder capitalised on her wholesome good looks by appearing in the coveted Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue and became a Victoria's Secret staple model. Mulder retreated from modelling in 2000 and has gone on record as saying that "From the beginning I hated being photographed. For me, it was just an assumed role, and in the end, I didn't really know who I was as a person. Everybody was saying to me, 'Hi, you're fantastic.' But inside, I felt worse from day to day." Mulder's life post-modelling has since been characterised by personal and emotional issues which have been widely documented in the international press.

Supermodels of the Nineties
US Vogue - April 1992
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier

Guess - 1991
Photographer - Ellen Von Unwerth

Calvin Klein - 1991
Photographer - Bruce Weber

British Vogue - July 1992
Photographer - Sante D'Orazio

US Vogue - July 1992
Photographer - 

French Elle - July 1992
Photographer - Unknown

British Vogue - April 1991
Photographer - Tyen

US Cosmopolitan - September 1991
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier

Italian Elle - August
Photographer - Unknown

US Vogue - July 1991
Photographer - Marc Hispard

Mademoiselle - February 1994
Photographer - Unknown

Glamour - July 1993
Photographer - Unknown

US Vogue - March 1992
Photographer - Marc Hispard

Cosmopolitan - June 1992
Photographer - Francesco Scavullo

British Vogue - March 1991
Photographer - Patrick Demarchelier

Wednesday, 4 May 2011

Shortly after my arrival in Berlin in July 2010, I was meandering down the main shopping precinct of Friedrichstraße, when I caught glimpse of an astonishingly beautiful woman with shoulder length, grey hair cycling past me. It was only upon second glance that I realised this vision of loveliness was the very spitting image of Nineties Supermodel Kristen McMenamy.

During the early Nineties, McMenamy reached the peak of her fame, creating iconic images with the likes of Helmut Newton, Richard Avedon, Juergen Teller and Steven Meisel. With her bleached eye brows, strong nose, androgynous looks, ever-changing hair colour and formidable personality, McMenamy came to represent the epitome of unconventional beauty. In an interview with i-D, McMenamy recounts how "My upbringing was very Catholic, very strict. I lived in suburban America where you had to fit the norm; otherwise you'd be considered an outcast. I was always an outcast. I fought my whole life against being normal, I'm not gonna start now."

Vogue Italia - May 2011
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - fashiongonerogue.com

i-D Magazine - September 2010
Photographer - Daniele Duella & Iango Henzi

i-D Magazine - September 2010
Photographer - Daniele Duella & Iango Henzi
Source - Models.com

In 2010, McMenamy ever the non-conformist, returned to modelling with a vengeance and new waist length silver, grey tresses. At age 46, McMenamy's ensuing editorial appearances in US Vogue, Vogue Italia, Paris Vogue, LOVE, Dazed & Confused, and i-D Magazine have cemented her near legendary status in the fashion industry as a muse to designers, photographers and stylists. 

Vogue Paris - October 2009
Photographer - David Sims
Source - models.com

US Vogue - August 2010
Photographer - David Sims
Source - models.com

LOVE - Issue 3
Photographer - Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott
Source - models.com

Dazed & Confused - August 2010
Photographer -  Tierney Gearon
Source - models.com


McMenamy continues to enthral, with her latest appearance on the cover of the May 2011 edition of Vogue Italia and in the accompanying editorial shot by Steven Meisel. I have not seen McMenamy looking better. She exhibits an inner calm and confidence whilst also retaining the free spirited nature of her personality. In the same interview with i-D Magazine McMenamy concurs "Well, I am still modelling at 46, that goes to show that there isn't a cut off point for beauty or coolness. I wanna be a rockin' senior citizen!"

Vogue Italia - May 2011
Photographer - Steven Meisel

Vogue Italia - May 2011
Photographer - Steven Meisel

Vogue Italia - May 2011
Photographer - Steven Meisel
Source - fashiongonerogue.com


 

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